Another one bits the dust

well of course another year has passed really, or is biting the dust. It is late December 2016 and this year is done, more or less, in a few days and a bit. A question would be how it was, really, in review. With 2017 approaching, so is my early retirement as well. That is really nice but also in a way sad that I am looking so much forward to this, to get out of the race, which I feel I don't want to continue. A usual I went to Germany a total of four times or an average of every three months to look after my dad, who this year had two operations. There was also a trip to South-East Asia and twice to Cyprus. I had not been to Cyprus for five years and kind had to rediscover the island. Thankfully we have really good friends that live in Nicosia. I could imagine to spend more time on the island once I jump ship and retire and spend some time there, especially in the North-West in the Akamas peninsula. A winter plus would be nice and write a book about it. As a title I could imagine " A winter in the Akamas".

I think professionally I have reached a stage of hibernation, I am in a waiting cycle, waiting for the time to pass, waiting to live. Waiting to live, is a sentence a colleague came up with to describe the state of life many of us are in. She is a painter and I asked her to paint this and I will try to photograph it and find something that would express this sentiment. I will continue to work on the 'Rue Hamra' project and also started to sort photos for a book about the time in Pakistan and Kashmir as well as Afghanistan. I probably will call it 'Kingdom in the Clouds' or something similar. It is about time to finally start this, it is more than 10 years that I left that region. It is also 10 years that I first came to New York, 33 years I went to Afghanistan for the first time when all the adventures began.

Looking back at 2016 it was not particularly bad or good either. No assignment to a new place this year, although I was requested to go to Haiti and Guinea Bissu but this was not approved by management. Fortunately there were no major health problems  to anyone in the family and myself, only the small things like flues etc.

Photography wise I have been continuing to work on some of my projects, like the Sugar Cane cutters of SE Asia, Rue Hamra here in Beirut and sporadically the Graffiti on walls all around. Not sure how many thousand photos I took[ 6000+ :) and more than last year ] still thinking not enough anyway. My favourite region in Lebanon remains Beirut for this year and the Chouf for its serene beauty and cleanliness, although I did not visit it often during the last twelve months. Of course there are many other places, but no, this remains the place I like the best here. Finally I visited the north of the country this year, especially the Qadisha Valley and surrounding areas like the birthplace of Khalil Gibran, my favorite Poet, it took a long time to materialize. But then, places like Baalbek (to visit again) and Tripoli, especially the fair grounds of design by Oscar Niemeyer, plus the old city remain on my bucket list for 2017.

For the year 2017 I would wish that peace may prevail in this region and anywhere else. Personally I do not have a specific wish except for good health to family, friends and myself. Maybe although that I get some of the passion back for the arts and photography. That really be it, nothing else.

In this sense I would like to wish everyone a VERY HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR 2017!!!


 

Stay alert, believe nothing, question everything. !


A winter in the Akamas...

would be a nice title for a book I thought but also a good idea to implement in reality. The 'Akamas' is the most western tip of Cyprus, the area after Pafos, the tourist center. Once one has left this nice but rather touristy town behind and starts climbing up into the hills, a little bit of the bygone and more rugged Cyprus appears, as always as soon as one moves away from the coast. Sure the coast has it's charm too, but not in the main tourist season when hordes of holidaymakers of all colours decent on the strip stretching from Aya Napa to Pafos. The mountains are not as crowded as well as the northern coast of the southern (Greek) part of the island. The Akamas is ideally placed, away from the crowds and more quite and serene.

It was a long time since I had visited Cyprus, so after five years it was about time to go again. The flight from Beirut to Larnaca is short, really short, 25 minutes. The time spend in Immigration can take you longer than the flight. November is low season, and instead of the dozen or so holiday flights that greet you in the high season on the tarmac, there was just one other plane at the gates when our plane from Beirut arrived. Arrival procedures where easy, lots of rent a car services and on the way to Ni cosia in no time. Driving is another thing getting used to, it is on the, sorry, wrong side of the road. :) It takes a bit of training and getting used to, on the highway no problem, but traffic circles are another story. Anyway, it was all good and the next day it was off to the Trodos Mountains, to the monastery of Johannes Lampadistes in Kalopanagiotes. The drive from Nicosia goes through the Mesoaria plains until the foothills of the Trodos Mountains, when the road slowly winds up the hill, the valley getting narrower by the mile. The land was dry, it had been a long and hot summer, and rain was desperately needed also in Cyprus. In the valley there was a little stream that was still flowing down from the Trodos Mountains, but if no major rainfall was to come soon, the days would be numbered for the creek. In contrast to most of the Middle East, the countryside was very clean and tidy, something that is appreciated if one comes from an area that sometimes feel more like a rubbish dump then anything else. But that is a complete other story.

 

The weather was nice for the whole time, and it was relaxing to travel with old friends and stay at their house. The Akamas peninsula was nearly empty but windswept the days we visited, clouds came in from the west and the forecast was advising of rain for a few days later. It was nice to travel during the 'empty' days, not much tourists and mostly locals. Even Limassol was pretty, autumn and winter have their advantage in those tourist hot places. For sure the time around Christmas and New Year, which is just around the corner, will see an influx of people, but very well so.

 

Back in the Levante, the Christmas season has started. While in Cyprus, finally, after 2 and a half years, a President was elected, also not all are happy about the choice. It is still the old guard from the civil war, there are young and inovative people that could have made a better choice, but so be it. Besides the presidency now for the first solved, it is the formation of the government now that hinges on the same deals, we will see. The other problems still persist, trash crises, electricity crisis, refugee crisis, war in the east, security situation and for sure a few other things. A day or so ago, a cosmetic surgeon was murdered after having been kidnapped 40 days ago and dumped in Sidon. Gee what did he do wrong? We finally had our first rainy days, and so did Cyprus. Weatherforecast indicates that more rain is to come next week, good, but the electricity and TV, as usual will suffer when it rains. The change of the year will be spend in Germany, if everything goes well, one more Christmas and I be free. Photography wise, besides being in Cyprus, I have continued with the work on the Rue Hamra project and the Graffity in Beirut. Mostly I used the Olympus cameras, OMD5 an EP2, which I kind of rediscovered for its grainy B/W setting which I like. I hope to write at least one more post before the year ends, and kind of promise that I will try and do more next year. Good Bye.

 


Hot Air......

 

Hot air is coming out of the blast furnace of the glass manufacturing workshop in Sarafand on the southern coast of Lebanon between the cities of Sidon and Tyre. The temperature in the furnace is 1400 degrees apparently and outside in the shade we have a hot 34 degrees. Inside the workshop it is also very hot, sweat running down my forehead as soon as I start photographing the workers in their chores. The glass manufacturing is done on a small scale in Sarafand using mostly recycled glass trash from one big beer company in  Lebanon. The tradition is old in the region and it was at the brink of disappearing but the Khalife family is continuing with making glass and seems to be the only one in or around Sarafand, maybe even Lebanon. Besides the workshop there is a small showroom where the produce is being sold at the source, instead of buying it in more expensive and perhaps overpriced boutiques in Beirut. For sale are all kind of glasses, carafes and teardrops for decorations in all kind of colours. The workshop is somewhat difficult to find, the little side road that goes off to the right coming from Tyre is hidden between the buildings, looking more like a driveway then anything else. The only sign to the place is when coming from the direction of Beirut on the old seaside road, but even that is not accurate and detailed enough. One ends up asking for directions but calling the shop on the phone is even better, with friendly advice received and guidance given. This place is definitely worth a visit when in Lebanon and travelling to the south of the country.

 

 

 

Right now the weather has become very hot, not like the furnace, but sometimes it feels close to it. The heat paired with high humidity makes it nearly unbearable to go out during the daylight hours, except early morning and after or close to sunset. But what to do and I thank the person every day who came up with the idea of air conditioning. Spend a week plus in Germany, small eye operation and all went well. Even there the weather turned hot and muggy and with no air conditioning or even a fan it became quite difficult to sleep. One week or 8 days is very short and like often now, it was so difficult to get going again and fly back to work. Here in the country, as every year there are problems with the electricity, political anyway with no real solution in sight, and let's see what else is brewing or going to come our way. The security situation is volatile, as always, the situation in the east not good, always threatening to affect this country as well. Thanks to the security agencies of the country who have managed so far to avoid the slide into the abyss. As every summer one can feel the influx of tourists but most, if not nearly all are locals, i.e. relatives from abroad in the diaspora coming back to see their relatives for the summer, crowding the street, beaches and restaurants. Traffic accidents have increased and one is happy once the quieter times come back in September, when all the hussel and bussel is gone and people have disappeared again back to their chosen exiles. I am looking forward to autumn and winter, cooler temperatures and rain and the chance to enjoy the outsides again with few people and nice breezes.

 

I only took the x100s to Germany and made some photos in the garden but nothing really noteworthy. It is a great travel camera of high quality and with the 35mm lens and the 50mm extension it covers most situations one encounters when travelling. I like the Fuji look of the Jpgs and the colours produced. It was the last camera I bought so far, and that is already over two years ago. Right now I am not planning on a new camera, the Olympus Pen F is tempting but for my style of documentary photography, I think right now I have all that is needed. This does not mean that eventually I get weak and buy one anyway. So for now this is all from here, more next months but nothing new much anyway. Bye.

 


The Dog days of July.....

 
Have finally arrived in the Levante, high humidity and temperatures during the days and only nominal lower at night and in the mornings. It is really sultry out there at times especially when there is no breeze. The months of Ramadan is ending during this week, and with that the beach revelers will reappear in Tyre on the weekends and roads are going to be crowded and clogged with undisciplined drivers on the days remaining during this summer season. Tourists are mostly local or local ex-pats returning for the summer from the far away places of the Lebanese diaspora, coming back to their ancestral homeland for a few weeks. 
 
Visitors from others places like Europe or the Gulf states are rarer to come by these days, for quite some time now, with the happenings in the lands of the eastern neighbour as well as happenings here making people think twice before making the journey. Reports of foiled attacks in the past months in public places like malls and apparently ‘casino du liban’ are not really reassuring and encouraging for tourists. Every time I am asking friends or family to come for a visit, the first question is if I can assure them that nothing is going to happen. Well, no I cannot, the region is what it is, volatile and anything can happen at any time. Authorities in this country are trying their best, successfully most of the time, to ensure that nothing will happen, and thank god, in most cases they have been able to do so. A big thanks for that.
 
 
However it appears that until now the name ‘Beirut’ is still being associated with the carnage and mayhem of the 15 years of civil war in the ‘70’s and ‘80’s. Nevertheless, despite all of the above I still say that Beirut and many parts of Lebanon are worth a visit. Beirut is the third most expensive city in the MENA region and that is not without reason. It has lots to offer and has been rebuild very nicely and a charm that would surprise many of the sceptical visitors, who I am convinced would savvy a week or so in the city and country.
 
The streets of Beirut are currently still the main focus of my photographic activity, with old cars and graffiti the points of interest. Somehow I will have to produce something like a book or calendar to display the fruits of my countless kilometers of walking down the streets of the city. Recently the streets of the Hamra district have been quieter as usual, for sure one of the reason being Ramadan. Cafes and eateries are calm, only few proprietors frequenting these establishment in the morning hours. With Ramadan ending the usual madness will return quickly, especially the traffic. 
 
As usual I am using my now trusted Fuji X100s and Olympus OMD for the main work. I just like their portability and the end results they produce, quality wise not necessarily the artistic results ;).
 
Window shopping Hamra - BeirutWindow shopping Hamra - Beirut
 
Walking on my regular tour through Hamra, always interesting to see what is displayed in the shop windows these days. Of course not a real AK47 but an imitation, but the first impression is different. Certainly an eye catcher. 
 
One of the old beautiful villas in Hamra, crumbling to pieces, possibly to make room for new high rise buildings and luxury apartments that only very can afford.
 
This is another one of the many old cars one can find walking in the streets of Beirut, hidden away in an alley.

Half time....

one could say, it is already the beginning of June 2016. Although I realize not many people really read all of this, I should try and continue with this stories more frequently and not so sporadic as of late. Well, sitting here on a Saturday, happy it is weekend and I am not at work. Lately it has gotten quite intense and much, but for better or worse I need to carry on, at least for a little while. As one can read in the international and local press and also in the meantime on the internet, there have been direct threats of attacks made against the organization, so we are all taking precautions and even around our residences there is currently high  security. Let's all hope that nothing happens and this all passes, the world is already crazy but seems there are not limits.

So, since I last wrote, indeed I went to the mountains as long planned. The trip to the Qadisha Valley and Bsharre happened, it was the Easter Weekend but it was still cold and rainy, even mixed with snow at the higher altitudes. Never mind, I had a taste of the area, a view of Tripoli (another place to visit, especially the old exhibition grounds designed by Oscar Niemeyer). Also the coast between Batroun and Tripoli looks promising with regard to photography. The salt pans and Enfeh are definitive a destination worth a visit, later this year after the summer has subsided. Otherwise I have not been much around the country this year, only Beirut for the weekly sojourns but not even lately, security is high and one has to think if each trip is necessary. There were local elections during the months of May, so the situation was volatile and I rather stayed at home, also, the maddening traffic is not very enticing to engage in all the time.

In April I went to Germany for my dad eye operation, which in the end did not happen due to a severe infection he got elsewhere that send him to hospital and the planned surgery at the eye had to be cancelled. He recovered, but it took quite a while and left him weak, his age of 86 showing and not helping in the recovery. In May then off to Cyprus to attend the weeding of one of my best friends daughter. It was a nice welcome break but the weekend was one of the hottest so far. Despite Cyprus being close and the flight is only 25 minutes, it takes about five hours from Tyre to either Nicosia or Limassol. The weekend was great with little sleep and tiring but well worth it.

Photography wise nothing dramatic happened during all this time. The mountains I photographed with the OMD and x100s, Germany a little with the x100s and Cyprus also with the x100s. Both of the cameras worked flawlessly and I am happy with the results, even they are not highly artistic. Despite all of that, I am also taking quite a few photos (or pictures?) with the Samsung S6, just because I guess I have with me all/most of the time and the results are, if not used in an too dark environment, are quite good. I also like the post processing of those images in Snapseed, which is a very nice tool to create unique images from photos taken on the S6. Most often I photograph in the square format so it is easily to identify as having been taken with the S6. I also like the square format from the days of the 120mm film, Rollei, Mamiya and Yashica 124G! I still have my Medium Format film cameras but have not used them in years, and for the price of a  digital Hasselblad one can better make a down-payment for a house!! The medium format Pentax is much more affordable but I do not need it for what I am currently do.

So, enough said, any more would be rambling only. I will attach a few photos from the recent months. Until next time, take care and good bye!

 

 

 

 


Happy Easter

Wishing everyone a Happy Easter.

I am amazed how fast this year is proceeding. Nearly three months are done already, and what can I say, I have been to busy so far to think of anything interesting or useful that I could have posted. The SAP project is eating my time and brain...

Here in Lebanon the first swifts have arrived, not to sure if they are just passing or staying for good. I have not seen any storks on the way north so far. This winter was dryer then the last one, but for this long weekend some rain is forecasted. I am going up north to the mountains for the weekend, I do not expect much snow anymore, it has been to warm lately. Today we had 29 C down here at the coast. I will see if some snow is left. I am looking to photograph the steep gorges and monasteries of the Qadisha Valley, Cedars and whatever else comes around. It will be the real first weekend devoted to photography. Hopefully the weather plays along and I am looking forward to a long Easter weekend in the mountains. In this spirit, Happy Easter again and more shortly ( I will try:)


The Rain is coming...

The rain is coming at the end of the year 2015, finally or at least that what is told in the media. Sitting in my office overlooking the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea I can see it coming, the rain that is, approaching from the south like a curtain, visible for miles out on the open sea. And now, within a minute or so it is here, hard rain and a howling wind, changed from partly sunny fifteen minutes ago.

So another year done, two more to go until R-Day. Looking back at 2015 it was not particularly bad or good either. No assignment to a new place this year, although I was requested to go to Somalia twice but this was not approved by management. There were several travels to Germany, the Gulf and South-East Asia, which for the most were enjoyable. Fortunately there were no major health problems  to anyone in the family and myself, only the small things like flues etc.

Photography wise I have been continuing to work on some of my projects, like the Sugar Cane cutters of SE Asia, Rue Hamra here in Beirut and sporadically the Graffiti on walls all around. Not sure how many thousand photos I took[ 5000+ :) ] still thinking not enough anyway. My favourite region in Lebanon remains the Chouf for its serene beauty and cleanliness. Of course there are many other places, but no, this remains the place I like the best here. Although I had planned to visit the north of the country this year, especially the Qadisha Valley and surrounding areas like the birthplace of Khalil Gibran, my favorite Poet, again it did not materialize. But then it remains on my bucket list for 2016.

For the year 2016 I would wish that peace may prevail in this region and anywhere else. Personally I do not have a specific wish except for good health to family, friends and myself. Maybe although that I get some of the passion back for the arts and photography. That really be it, nothing else.

In this sense I would like to wish everyone a VERY HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR 2016!!!

 

  • Yesterday is but today's memory, and tomorrow is today's dream.
  • Out of suffering have emerged the strongest souls; the most massive characters are seared with scars.
  • If you love somebody, let them go, for if they return, they were always yours. And if they don't, they never were.

​by Khalil Gibran

 


The Trucian coast.......

The Trucian coast...

is today's area of the United Arab Emirates and also included Bahrain and Oman originally, which now are of course separate countries. One of the most prominent places in the UAE is Dubai, which has developed from a sleepy fishing villages of the ‘Trucian’ times into a supersonic city. What is missing are the space gliders moving silently between the high rises along Sheikh Zayed Road...

., passing the futuristic ‘Docking Stations’ which in fact are the stops of the ultramodern Dubai Metro running from Rashidiya to Jebel Ali and some loops within the city. Even Terminal 2 and 3 of the airport are connected so there is an alternative to get into town if one does not want to use a taxi.

"Prometheus Waterfall"

As envisioned, a long weekend in Dubai was a welcome break in these hectic days which are now mostly wrapped around a useless software implementation I nicknamed ‘Dudojo’ which is sold as the latest and best and brightest since God knows. By luck someone send me an article from yester-years when we implemented the now Legacy System, and low and behold, the wording is the same then as now, same sales tactic, and for sure going to be the same result of a dysfunctional software money grave that will be sold to the public as a wonderful cost saving to be achieved to cut post, meaning kicking staff out.

"Dubai Creek - QD's Bar & Restaurant"

Anyway soon this is hopefully going be over, I can turn my back at this and follow what I want to do, which for the first months for sure is going to be a detox of all the pain and nonsense of the last decades. So well, Dubai, nice, I did like it a lot but as usual to short. The flight from Beirut is longer these days, no more 2 hours and a bit, a solid 4 hours and ten minutes with a detour over Turkey and then running down the length of Iran into the Gulf and finally Dubai. The Airport was not too full and Immigration was passed relatively quick. The weather was nice, not hot and humid anymore and very pleasant in the evenings.

 

It was nice to sit out at Dubai Creek and have a Gin and Tonic as well as a Shisha and some nice food with friends. Of course there are the Malls with all the Mega shops known from the US, prices are average, I mean not especially cheap and on a close level with Beirut. The advantage is that everything is available and I visited Dubai Mall twice. I am drawn to the Waterfall with the figures of divers which remind me so much of the opening scene of the film ‘Prometheus’ a few years back. Also nice is the Aquarium. I will see if I get some inspiring black and whites from the waterfall divers as enlargements.

Also worth a visit, and if it is only for the people watching was the Atlantis Hotel at the end of the ‘Palm’. I went there at night, watching the people coming and going and boy there were some interesting sights. The food was excellent, but again it ain’t was a bargain. Never mind I enjoyed it and had, since a long time, a Mai Tai long-drink. This hotel also has a fabulous aquarium with a restaurant adjacent and underneath it, and the theme shows the sunken city of ‘Atlantis’, with myriads of all kinds of fish swimming around. Really impressive, but access is normally only for guest staying at the hotel, never mind, I managed to get by and look and of course take some photos. Must say this time I enjoyed Dubai more than last time. I also went to the Ras Khor Wildlife reserve just on the edge of the city where one can go on into the deserts of Arabia. Here with some of the mudflats and brackish waters of the creek, combined with some woodland, there are Flamingos that inhabit the reserve and most likely other bird and wildlife. I read about it in one of the travel guides online and it was recommended and I must say it was worth it. The hide was a bit crowded at first but managed to get a spot to take some photos of the birds.

"The Blue Hole"

I took with me the OMD and the 100s, which was good. I finally lost the eyecup of the OMD after coming loose so many times but usually I was always able to catch it before it was gone. Not this time, so will have to order a new one. As always, I was happy with the performance of both cameras, and I also used the 100s on manual focusing which worked surprisingly well in dark places with the focus peaking being a big help. I used both JPEG and RAW, although the software I currently use is outdated and I can not open the RAW files of either camera without downloading a RAW converter, but it will be difficult to find one for OS 10.5.8, which is rather outdated now, but still doing it’s job. Overall I took about 700 photos (both JPEG and RAW), which was less than I initially thought I would photograph. I walked a lot due to the good weather and also visited the souks and the old quarter which was very nice and worth the while and definitely would make me come back.

I am pretty sure that I can stand the place only in winter, i.e. November to may be March, but if I remember last year in August for the two days, it was so hot and humid that it was not fun to be outside. It was a nice visit and I will do it again for a long weekend in the winter months. On top of it I had a good time. In this sense, until the next time and good bye.